When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.
The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.
“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.
A tech enthusiast and journalist with over a decade of experience covering emerging technologies and digital transformations.
Michael Hunter
Michael Hunter
Michael Hunter
Michael Hunter
Michael Hunter
Michael Hunter